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COPING WITH CANINE BATHTIME CAPERS |
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Many people find that washing a muddy dog is a challenge. Imagine, then, having a gang of six like Membership Secretary Penny Gayler. After 35 years of coping with a house full, Penny has plenty of dog bath time advice she is happy to share. Autumn. The season, according to 18th century poet John Keats, of mists, mellow fruitfulness --- and smelly dogs. Actually, the “smelly dogs” bit is mine. Keats got so wrapped up waxing lyrical about autumn being the “close bosom friend of the maturing sun” he obviously forgot all about the smelly dogs. The arrival of autumn is my cue to get on and give my dogs an end-of-summer bath. I do not believe in washing dogs too often because it upsets the balance of oils in their coats, stripping out their “waterproofing”. However, they have had a wonderful time during the summer, playing in the local streams, swimming in ponds and rolling in the dirt. The perfect time for a pre-winter MOT is before the heat goes out of the sun. My showgirls are bathed on a regular basis, and new golden retriever puppy Heidi gets a monthly shower because puppies’ coats are different. But the rest of the crew escape my attention unless they roll in something really disgusting. Now it is their turn for a proper bath. I am lucky enough to have a custom built dog-shower in my utility room. In addition, I persuaded my husband John to install an outside hot/cold shower fitting in the dog yard. That means that not only can I wash them down with tepid water before coming indoors when they are muddy, I can also give them a full body shampoo when the weather is warm enough and the mood takes me. With a cleat fixed to the wall to hold their lead and Wellington boots to keep my feet dry, we are in business. There are more shampoos on the market than you can shake a stick at. There are shampoos for black dogs, white dogs, harsh coats, soft coats, tea tree, anti flea, anti dandruff and even those smelling of peaches and cream. When all else fails, Johnson’s Baby shampoo is unlikely to upset even the most sensitive of skins, but I do prefer to use one designed for a dog. Having given them a good groom to remove loose hair, let battle commence. If you have to put Rover into your bath, a shower mat or towel underfoot will prevent him from slipping around. Attach his lead to the tap if you must to keep him from leaping out, or enlist the help of another to hold his head while you do the rest. Start from the neck down, leaving the head until last. This should stop him from shaking and drenching you and the bathroom. Soak the coat thoroughly before applying shampoo, lather it up well and make sure you rinse it all out. Apply a coat conditioner and comb through before rinsing again. Try not to get the inside of the ear wet when you wash his head, and make sure you keep shampoo well away from his eyes. One quick tip; if Rover has rolled in fox poo, the best way to remove the worst of the smell is to rub tomato sauce in to the coat and then shampoo off. Although old towels are adequate for drying, there is now a super-absorbent cloth on the market called an Easidri that works very well for me. It was originally designed to dry horses and now comes in a handy size for dogs. It is available from Overland Marketing Ltd., Tel: 01638 730700, www.overlandmarketing.co.uk. It comes in two sizes and does a better job than towels. Once the worst of the water is off, I like to get them on to the lawn and let the sun do the rest. Check inside ears. Dry if necessary and use an ear cleaner if they are mucky. You can buy ear cleaning products from most pet shops, or ask your vet for something appropriate. I use a powder called Thornits and find it keeps ears clean and cool. Available from Hall Stables, Thornham, Hunstanton, PE36 6NB or ring for advice on 01485 512210. Now is also a good time to check on claws and trim if necessary. Most big dogs are “rear wheel drive” and rarely will hind claws need much attention, but front claws usually do need a trim. If you are not confident enough to do them yourself, ask your vet next time you visit. Small dogs may need both hind and front claws trimming as they are not heavy enough to wear them down. Long claws will not only alter the shape of the foot, they may also lead to other problems as the dog cannot use his foot properly. Leave any “spot-on” flea treatment until after his bath and do not allow him in water for 48 hours after treatment. Check on the condition of his teeth as well. If they are a bit mucky, his breath will smell. My gang all have raw marrow bones to chew on and their teeth stay sparkling white. If like me you have a multi dog household, fresh bones are the one thing that could spark a fight. If you plan to give bones and you are not sure about temperaments, it is safer to separate the dogs and pick the bones up before they are re-united. There is a product called Plaque-off on the market available on-line from www.petmeds.co.uk, Helpline 0800 0430848. Or you can simply clean their teeth with canine toothpaste and toothbrush. If they are unhappy about the toothbrush, wrap a fabric plaster round your finger and rub their teeth with that. At this time of year grass seeds can cause a problem by becoming lodged in ears or between toes. As grass seeds are barbed, once they have worked their way under the skin they may need to be removed surgically. Check inside the ears when you are back from a walk. It helps to keep the fur short between pads and toes so that you can see what is going on. A grass seed lodged between toes will quickly go septic and the dog may “worry” its foot. You will probably find a red lump and this will need veterinary treatment. And so, with six sweet smelling dogs at my feet and a G&T as a reward for my efforts, I am left to ponder on how I stop Freya from rolling in something horrible on tomorrow’s walk, and coming back with a big grin on her face as if to say: “Now this is how I am supposed to smell!”
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